In one of the world’s biggest and most exciting cities, deciding where to base yourself is key. For as with any great metropolis, Mexico City is defined by its vibrant, various and far-flung neighborhoods.
Our list below is hardly a definitive account of the hundreds of quarters that make up this great place (how could it be?) – yet we’ve done our best to summarize some of the characteristics that makes these beloved, highly walkable neighborhoods, such favorites.
In the trendy Roma and Condesa districts, the fiesta never stops as you tap into the spirited food and nightlife scenes. Across town, Centro Histórico is all about rich cultural offerings and old-world architecture. Or take it down a notch and embrace the low-key bohemian lifestyle of Coyoacán, just as Frida and Diego did back in the day. Or go even further afield, to have a nature experience within CDMX’ city limits.
Whether you’re planning to visit for a weekend or relocate for a longer spell, consider this list of our favorite neighborhoods in Mexico City.
1. Centro Histórico
Best neighborhood for culture and architecture
Mexico’s heart beats in the Centro. With more than 1500 historic buildings, ancient Aztec ruins, vibrant art and some of the nation’s most absorbing museums, the Centro Histórico is the place to feel the full sweep of Mexican history and culture.
A stroll across the Zócalo, Latin America’s largest main square, takes you to dramatic Diego Rivera murals housed in the Palacio Nacional. Just a stone’s throw away lie the remains of the Templo Mayor, a sacred Aztec temple with a world-class museum that showcases the treasures excavated at the site. Looming over everything (and tilting a bit, thanks to the sinking ground underneath) is the magnificent Catedral Metropolitana, a baroque pile built by the Spanish atop the temple’s ruins.
In addition to its vast and varied cultural offerings, the Centro provides a backdrop of striking colonial buildings, some of which have been lovingly converted into hostels and boutique hotels. Granted, organized chaos is king in these hectic streets, which are packed with shoppers and office workers in addition to tourists – but if you like an area with plenty of action, the historic center is chock-full of rewards.
2. Roma
Best neighborhood for eating and drinking
Just when it looked like this colonia (neighborhood) had reached the height of cool, along came Alfonso Cuarón’s Oscar-winning film Roma (2018), piquing visitors’ interest in this fantastic area even more. Now it seems like every other week the rapidly gentrifying Roma sees a hot new cocktail bar or stylish fusion restaurant popping up in its splendid French-style mansions.
When in Roma, don’t miss out on the delectable barbacoa tacos at El Hidalguense, where lamb is slow-cooked over aged oak wood and the pulque (a fermented alcoholic agave drink) flows like water. Book a table at the perennially packed Contramar, a trendsetting seafood restaurant famous for its tuna tostadas and zesty, grilled whole fish.
After the meal, grab a mezcal or cafecito on Álvaro Obregón, Roma’s main strip, or saunter along Calle Colima, a buzzy street dotted with community art galleries, small museums and the popular Rosetta bakery.
3. Condesa
Best neighborhood for leafy, laid-back vibes
One could argue that the trendy Condesa neighborhood has taken a back seat to ultra-hip Roma. Yet this leafy and relaxed district is still one of CDMX’ most appealing places to stay thanks to its welcoming B&Bs, convivial bars and highly diverse choice of restaurants.
At times, it’s hard to know where Condesa ends and the neighboring Roma begins, as both enclaves exude a similar laid-back vibe in their verdant parks, sidewalk cafes and hopping late-night taco joints.
Many neighborhood hot spots are clustered around Parque España and Parque México, the latter a former horse-racing track that was transformed into an iconic oval park in the 1920s. Nearby, well-managed bed-and-breakfasts such as Red Tree House and Hotel Villa Condesa provide the perfect base for exploring Condesa and beyond.
4. Alameda Central
Best neighborhood for local flavor
For better or worse, downtown Mexico City has undergone an ambitious makeover over the past decade, with most of the sprucing up (which some would call displacement) focused on the Centro Histórico. Yet you can still experience the city center of old along the busy streets south of Alameda Central. Start with a bit of tequila in the atmospheric Tío Pepe, the oldest bar in the city, which Beat writer William Burroughs described as a “cheap cantina” in his 1953 novel Junkie.
Next, mosey on over to the original location of El Huequito, a hole-in-the-wall taco joint that has been slicing some of the city’s tastiest tacos al pastor (spit-cooked pork) for more than six decades. One of Mexico City’s best markets, Mercado de San Juan is a highlight of the quarter (we dare you to try the dried scorpions). And the the elegantly dressed seniors who join in group sessions of danzón (a slow Cuban swing) at Parque de la Ciudadela will bring a smile to even the most hardened visitor’s face.
Of course, a visit to this neighborhood wouldn’t be complete without spending time in Alameda Central itself, the oldest urban park in the Americas and home to the Palacio de Bellas Artes opera house, with its displays of masterful works of art by Mexico’s big three muralists: Rivera, Siqueiros and Orozco.
5. Coyoacán
Best neighborhood for quiet charm
It’s easy to understand why Mexican artists Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera chose to call Coyoacán home for so many years. Even decades after being swallowed by CDMX’ urban sprawl, Coyoacán has managed to retain some village charm on its cobbled streets and colorful plazas. The area can be surprisingly quiet, too.
Almost every visitor to Mexico City makes a pilgrimage to Casa Azul, Kahlo’s former home and studio, to gain a deeper understanding of the painter. In fact, it has become such a tourist hot spot that visits must now be booked in advance online.
Just around the corner, the Museo Casa de León Trotsky sees far fewer visitors, yet it offers a downright fascinating look at a house where Leon Trotsky, the exiled Marxist revolutionary, lived in exile before he was assassinated with an ice axe.
6. Xochimilco and Cumbres del Ajusco
Best areas for outdoor activities
For a real Mexico City treat, take a gondola ride along the ancient canals of Xochimilco, the last vestiges of a once vast network of waterways dating back to Aztec times that’s today just a (long) Metro ride away from the the Zócalo.
Aboard your colorful trajinera boat, you can cruise out to the creepy Isla de las Muñecas (Island of the Dolls), where hundreds of deteriorating dolls hang from clotheslines and trees to ward off the spirit of a drowned girl. Depart from the Cuemanco dock, where you can stock up cervezas and tacos before boarding your boat.
About 25km (15.5 miles) west of Cuemanco lies Cumbres del Ajusco, a national park with a hiking trail that ascends to Mexico City’s highest peak. If you like the quiet of Ajusco’s fragrant pine forest, consider an overnight stay in a log cabin at the family-friendly Parque Ejidal San Nicolás Totolapan.
For rock climbing and more nature exploring, visit the third and fourth sections of nearby Los Dinamos, a protected canyon area that’s home to Mexico City’s last free-flowing river.
