Bali–Lombok–Gili Islands may be the classic tour route, but there is so much more to Indonesia.
The breadth of activities matches the sprawling scale of the more than 13,000 islands in the world’s biggest island nation. Rich wildlife zones extend across both land and sea for bountiful hiking, diving, climbing and sailing. Add in megalithic tombstones, temple ruins and chill surf towns for a veritable playground of adventure.
Plan your trip around these 11 things to do.
1. Walk with dragons in Komodo National Park
The UNESCO-protected Komodo National Park is the domain of living dragons, Indonesia’s apex predators. Just east of Komodo, Rinca – smaller but more densely populated with particularly aggressive dragons – is one of the most exciting predator territories on the planet for hiking. It is possible to combine dragons and orangutans in a single tour, taking in two of nature’s stars in the world’s second-richest wildlife zone (only the Amazon has greater natural diversity than Indonesia).
2. Climb volcanoes in Java
A third of the world’s active volcanoes are on Indonesian soil. In Java, especially, you are rarely out of sight of a smoldering peak. The mighty Gunung Bromo, at 2329m (7641ft), is perhaps the most popular to climb – it is best to time your arrival on the summit for sunrise.
At the extremes of the island, you find the equally dramatic 157m (515ft) Anak Krakatau (accessible by boat from the West Javanese coast) and the 2799m (9183ft) Kawah Ijen, with its ghostly rivers of blue fire caused by burning sulfur. For those looking for an easier path or anyone with limited mobility, Tangkuban Prahu at 2084m (6837ft) is accessible by vehicle from Bandung city. It is safest to climb these active volcanoes with an experienced guide or as part of a tour with a responsible operator.
3. Experience the megalithic culture in Sumba
The island of Sumba remains almost unknown despite being twice the size of Bali. A culture based on ancestor worship installed megalithic tombstones (the largest vastly outweighs the biggest stone at Stonehenge) that were moved several kilometers overland by hundreds of laborers. One of Indonesia’s developing frontiers for adventurous travelers, Sumba is also home to the ritual (and still occasionally fatal) horseback battles in the Pasola Festival.
4. Visit the mystical Kelimutu lakes in Flores
Due to a quirk of geology, the three sister lakes of Kelimutu National Park in the center of Flores are capable of drastically changing color over the course of just a couple of days. Local people carefully watch the color transitions of the lake known as Tiwi Ata Mbupu, since it is said to be a resting place for demons and the spirits of witches. It is best to stay overnight in the village of Moni, where there are several homestays and hotels (as well as a lovely hot spring), so you are on the spot to visit the crater lakes around dawn before the mountain mists descend.
5. Dive in the Coral Triangle
There are an estimated 750 species of coral in Indonesian waters (the entire Caribbean has just 70). With much of the richest section of the Coral Triangle – the world’s greatest center for marine biodiversity – lying in Indonesian waters, it is unsurprising that the area is at the top of wish lists for most divers worth their salt.
Raja Ampat is regarded as the Indonesian dive site par excellence and, along with Wakatobi National Park off Sulawesi, is known for encounters with whale sharks. Manta rays are another main draw, and at both Manta Alley in Komodo and Manta Point in Nusa Penida (just east of Bali), you’re virtually guaranteed to see them.
6. Break away from the crowds in Bali’s west
Anyone who thinks Bali is overrun with visitors and overdeveloped need only drive beyond Canggu, where the tide of tourists seems to reach its height. Two hours west from here – on a beautiful drive through seemingly endless paddies – you reach Medewi in the heart of West Bali.
This low-key surf town is set in the middle of a deserted 20km (66ft) black sand beach, unmarred by even a single sun lounger. The river mouth at Perancak harbors one of the most colorful traditional fishing fleets. And on Sunday mornings, the dramatic (but often gory) West Balinese sport of mekepung buffalo chariot racing takes place across the vast plains of paddies south of Negara town.
7. See the upswept architecture of Tana Toraja
Hidden in the center of Sulawesi, you find one of the world’s most fascinating cultures. The people of Tana Toraja build remarkable homes – the roofs of which, some say, represent buffalo horns or ships. (Others say they represent spacecraft!) With its blissful highland climate and scenic landscapes, Tana Toraja is a wonderful area for hiking, but somewhat bizarrely, the major draw lies in the lavish funeral rites that can cost more than US$100,000. Deceased loved ones are considered merely ill until the last rites take place. You may be shocked to be introduced to older people who passed away several years before yet are still carefully preserved in a family’s front room. Other island highlights include diving in Bunaken National Marine Park and exploring the Minahasans’ homeland of North Sulawesi.
8. Visit one of the world’s most spectacular temple ruins in Java
The UNESCO-protected Borobudur temple in Central Java is one of the archaeological wonders of our planet. It is believed to be the biggest (and certainly the most mysterious) Buddhist temple ruin and dates back over 1200 years. Try to stay nearby so you can arrive before first light and climb straight to the upper terrace – called the Sea of Immortality – to watch the spectacular sunrise over the Javanese volcanoes. It is a spiritually powerful experience. Admission to the temple is US$25 per person.
9. Sail with the “bogeymen” in a pinisi schooner in Sulawesi
The traditional timber sailing schooners of southern Sulawesi have become part of humanity’s Intangible Cultural Heritage and are an icon of Indonesia’s maritime tradition. Built by the Bugis and Konjo people, these boats are known as pinisi. The Bugis people were once fearsome pirates throughout the archipelago and became a European household name – and the subject of countless childhood nightmares – as “bogeymen.” This celebrated fleet of charter vessels frequently sails around Sumbawa, Komodo, Maluku and West Papua and now represents what is often the only feasible way to access some of Indonesia’s remotest islands.
10. Watch orangutans and track tigers in Sumatra
Gunung Leuser National Park is the best place to see critically endangered Sumatran orangutans. The village of Bukit Lawang – built along the steep Bohorok Valley – is a good base to set up guided trips or join a tour to see the wild apes. But try not to rush your visit because this little community is one of Indonesia’s most pleasant (and underrated) backpacker hangouts. Despite being almost twice the size of Gunung Leuser, Kerinci Seblat National Park is rarely visited, yet it is home to one of the world’s only healthy – which is to say increasing – tiger populations.
11. Explore Danau Toba and the Batak highlands
Danau Toba is the world’s biggest crater lake. In the middle of the lake lies Pulau Samosir (the world’s biggest freshwater island, listed in Guinness World Records as “the world’s biggest island on an island”). There are several reasons for visiting this area, but the immensely welcoming Batak people (once feared as cannibals) are the main draw. Don’t cut short a trip to Danau Toba, though. You can rent wonderful, affordable Batak houses and spend a week or so exploring all parts of the island, including the hot springs and, with permission and a Batak guide, Gunung Pusuk Buhit – the sacred mountain.
