Sri Lanka is a small island that packs a punch. In a short trip, you can explore ancient cities, relax on palm-fringed beaches, hike through the lush and misty hill country and dine on endless rice and curry.
Even getting around Sri Lanka can be part of the adventure, with its famous trains turning transport into a sightseeing journey. While self-driving in Sri Lanka is not recommended, hiring a private car with a driver is easy to arrange and relatively affordable, making a road trip a simple way to explore this island nation.
Our 7- and 8-day itineraries highlight various parts of the country, but extend your stays in various stops or even combine multiple routes to build the 2- or even 3-week itinerary of your dreams.
1. See Sri Lanka’s ancient cities and capitals
Allow at least 7 days
Distance: 250km (155 miles)
With eight UNESCO-listed sites, four former capitals and a liberal scattering of atmospheric monastic ruins, rock citadels, gigantic stupas and astonishing Buddhist art, the central plains are the place to explore Sri Lanka’s spectacular past and its rich Buddhist cultural heritage. Amateur archaeologists and fans of lost cities are in for a treat.
Anuradhapura: 2 days
The sprawling archaeological site of Anuradhapura and its sacred Bodhi Tree, holy stupas and archaeological museums can be seen in a long day, but it’s better with two. If you’re short on time, visit just Abhayagiri.
Detour: A half-day trip takes you to Mihintale, 13km (8 miles) outside town, to join pilgrims at the spot where Buddhism first took root in Sri Lanka.
Next stop: Drive 1 hour from Anuradhapura to Ritigala.
Ritigala: 1 day
As you travel from Anuradhapura and towards Polonnaruwa, make a stop at the ruined forest monastery of Ritigala. In an hour you can explore the stone stairways, platforms and meditation halls half-hidden between dripping tree roots. The site is 8km (5 miles) off the main road, so it’s easiest if you have your own transport, though you can often find a tuk tuk at the road junction.
Next stop: Drive 90 minutes from Ritigala to Polonnaruwa.
Polonnaruwa: 1 day
More ancient city ruins await at Polonnaruwa, the millennia-old former capital. You can see the main ticketed collection of monasteries, Buddha statues, stupas and royal palaces in half a day (early morning is best) but there are other minor sights to fill a long day. Don’t miss the far northern group of sights and give the interesting archaeological museum an hour.
Next stop: Drive 90 minutes from Polonnaruwa to Sigirya.
Sigiriya: 1 day
Sigiriya, meaning “lion’s rock”, is a must-see for its spectacular location and enigmatic history. Some travelers are content to see it from afar from Pidurangala (thus saving the US$30 entry fee) but it’s worth visiting both rocks; Sigiriya at dawn and Pidurangala at sunset. In the afternoon take a 4WD safari to Minneriya National Park.
Next stop: Drive 45 minutes from Sigiriya to Damulla.
Dambulla: 1 day
The beautiful Buddhist cave murals of Dambulla are an artistic highlight of Sri Lanka. You can visit them as a half-day excursion from Sigiriya, or en route to Kandy, but be sure not to miss them. The actual caves require just an hour but you need to budget time to hike up to them. Few people overnight in Dambulla itself.
Next stop: Drive roughly 3 hours from Dambulla to Kandy.
Kandy: 1 day
Kandy is Sri Lanka’s cultural capital, linking the plains to the highlands. Visit the sacred Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic inside the former royal palace (preferably during the dramatic 15-day Esala Perahera festival) and spend the rest of the day exploring the Central Market and the old town. For sunset views take a tuk tuk up to the Buddha statue on Bahirawa Kanda.
2. Take a train journey to the central highlands
Allow at least 7 days
Distance: 450km (280 miles)
After the heat of the plains it’s a relief to climb into the cool, misty highlands of Sri Lanka’s green center. The country’s best walking trails are here, but don’t worry, if your legs start to tire there are plenty of fun alternatives, from rafting and caving to abseiling and canyoning.
Kandy: 2 days
Once you’ve seen the Temple of the Tooth, explored the old town and caught a performance of traditional Kandyan dance, get out of town and take a hike; either through the forbidden forest of Udawattakele or on a guided hike through the misty Knuckles range. We recommend adding on a day for overnight glamping in the conservation forest.
Next stop: Take a 4-hour train ride from Kandy to Nuwara Eliya.
Nuwara Eliya: 1 day
If you’ve managed to snag tickets, enjoy the country’s famous train ride through the hills and tea plantations to Nanu Oya, before taking a tuk tuk for the remaining 10km (6 miles) to Nuwara Eliya. Play a round on the British-era golf course, pick up a jar of chutney made by Franciscan nuns and linger over high tea in one of the town’s atmospheric colonial-era hotels.
Next stop: Drive 2.5 hours from Nuwara Eliya to Sri Pada.
Sri Pada (Adam’s Peak): 1 day
Anyone who likes pilgrimages will want to make the pre-dawn hike from Dalhousie (travel here the evening before) up the 5000-plus steps to the summit of Adam’s Peak, where you’ll walk in sacred footprints of Buddha or Biblical Adam, depending on your religious persuasion. Expect to walk shoulder-to-shoulder with pilgrims, especially on poya (full moon) nights, when you’ll queue for hours.
Next stop: Drive 3.5 hours from Sri Pada to Horton Plains National Park.
Horton Plains National Park: 1 day
Back at Nuwara Eliya, make the hour-long drive to the high plateau of Horton Plains for the popular 9.5km-loop (5.9-miles) to the World’s End escarpment for incredible views. If you fancy something remoter and more demanding, take a guide for the day hike up to Mt Kirigalpotta, Sri Lanka’s second-highest peak (and the highest you can actually hike to).
Next stop: Take a 3-hour train from Nanu Oya station near Nuwara Eliya to Ella.
Ella: 1 day
After Horton Plains make your way to the backpacker center of Ella, preferably on the afternoon train from Pattipola, and visit one of Ella’s many spectacular waterfalls. Early the next morning walk the 3-hour return trail to island-wide views at Ella Rock, or organize a guide for the off-beat hike to 5000-year-old cave art at Kurullangala Rock.
Next stop: Drive 2 hours from Ella to Uda Walawe National Park.
Uda Walawe National Park: 1 day
Early mornings and late afternoons are the best times for a 4WD safari. The drive from Ella to Uda Walawe goes via Wellawaya and Thanamalwila and a hired car will really save you some time here over the buses. From Uda Walawe the beaches of the south coast are just 2 hours’ drive away.
3. Explore Sri Lanka’s south coast
Allow at least 7 days
Distance: 320km (199 miles)
Sri Lanka’s south is a string of gorgeous beaches, surf schools and hip restaurants, with a more independent vibe than the west. It’s a great place to learn to surf and eat smoothie bowls, but there are also Buddhist temples and pilgrimage sites, and the vibe gets quieter and wilder as you head east.
Galle: 1 day
You need a full day in Galle to wander it’s 2km-long (1.2-mile) fort walls, soak up the colonial history and enjoy the fortified town’s stylish restaurants, bars and cafes. It’s the most romantic human-made destination in Sri Lanka, so is a good place to splash out on a fancy hotel and cocktails. Get here on the coastal train from Colombo Fort.
Next stop: Drive 2 hours from Galle to Weligama.
Weligama: 1 day
Public transport is frequent along the south coast but it’s nice to have your own wheels to stop off at beachside restaurants and detour to the Handunugoda Tea Estate. Spend a couple of hours in Weligama trying a surf lesson at one of dozens of surf schools. If you catch the bug, come back for a week-long surf camp.
Next stop: Drive 2 hours from Weligama to Tangalla.
Tangalla: 1 day
It’s a beautiful drive to Tangalla, so take your time and consider stops at Dondra Head Lighthouse, beautiful Talalla Bay and the stunning beach at Goyambokka. Arrive in Tangalla in time for a sunset stroll along the wild sands of Marakolliya Beach. End the day with a sundowner or fish dinner right on the beach, and keep an eye out for nesting turtles.
Next stop: Drive 2 hours from Tangalla to Tissamaharama.
Tissamaharama: 1 day
Get to Tissa at lunchtime and spend the afternoon visiting the Buddhist dagobas and monastery ruins of the ancient Kingdom of Ruhuna. Around dusk, head to the banks of the Tissa Wewa reservoir to watch flittering bats, roosting birds and the colors of the setting sun; boat tours are a nice option. Get an early night, as you’ll be up at the crack of dawn tomorrow.
Next stop: Drive 1 hour from Tissamaharama to Yala National Park.
Yala National Park: 1 day
A dawn 4WD safari to Yala National Park is a must-do. With luck you’ll spot a leopard lazing in the cradle of a tree branch, but even the unlucky will see wild elephants, crocodiles, painted storks, iridescent bee-eaters and maybe even a sloth bear. You’ll be back in Tissa at lunchtime, so with planning you could continue into the hills that afternoon.
Next stop: Drive 4 hours from Yala National Park to Haputale.
Haputale: 2 days
Haputale is a great place to hike the central highlands away from the crowds of places like Ella. Get up early to join the tea pickers on a stroll through tea fields to Lipton’s Seat or make longer day hikes to the summits of nearby Prabhawa or Wangedigala peaks, the latter offering views of Sri Lanka’s tallest waterfall.
4. Go off-track in the northeast
Allow at least 8 days
Distance: 300km (186 miles)
This is the remotest of our itineraries, for those who want to shake off the surfer dudes and Instagrammers and get a deeper sense of rural Sri Lanka and the aftermath of its civil war. Alongside the more surreal sights are some fabulous beaches, towering Hindu temples, ancient Buddhist stupas and superlative food.
Trincomalee: 1 day
Get to Trinco by train, from Colombo or Habarana, or bus from Anuradhapura, and then spend some time getting to know this ancient port town, from its Dutch-era Fort Frederick to the towering gateways of the much-revered Koneswaram Kovil Shiva temple. Between March and November, keep a look out for whales from this finger of land.
Next stop: Take a bus for 30 minutes from Trincomalee to Nilaveli.
Nilaveli: 1 day
There are many fabulous beaches on the east coast but few rival the 4km-long (2.5-mile) sands of Nilavelli. There’s not much to do here except slow down, go swimming and relax, though the snorkeling off nearby Pigeon Island is fantastic for coral and black-tip reef sharks. Certified divers can explore the wreck of an aircraft carrier.
Next stop: Drive 1 hour from Nilaveli to Kuchchaveli Beach.
Kuchchaveli Beach: 1 day
Rent a tuk tuk or car with driver for an absorbing day’s drive north along the B424, as it threads between ocean and lagoon. Stop at a trio of Buddhist ruins (including one of the world’s oldest stupas) and pause to watch fishers land their catch at Kuchchaveli Beach.
Next stop: Take a 2-hour bus ride from Pulmoddai to Mullaittivu.
Mullaittivu: 1 day
The bus from Pulmoddai drops you in the sober town of Mullaittivu, where the final days of the civil war played out in 2009. Pay your respects at the two war memorials here; one celebrating the army’s victory, the other established by locals to mark the site of the final massacre. It’s a sobering place to gain insights into the war.
Next stop: Drive 2 hours from Mullaittivu to Jaffna.
Jaffna: 2 days
In the vibrant northern Tamil city of Jaffna you can explore remnants of colonialism at the Dutch fort, British-era churches and Tamil temples (try to catch the chariot processions of July’s Nallur festival), and savor the culinary scene, from an early morning visit to fish markets to dinners of spicy crab curry, topped off by a cocktail at the Peninsula Hotel.
Next stop: Take a ferry for 30 minutes to 1 hour from Jaffna to Neduntivu.
Neduntivu (Delft): 2 days
Take two days (or preferably three) to explore the archipelago west of Jaffna where Sri Lanka splinters into a scattering of islands in the Palk Strait. Drive the causeways to Velanai and Punkudutivu, take ferries to Nainativu’s Buddhist and Hindu pilgrimage sites, then overnight on Neduntivu island, home to wild horses and coral fences, before returning to Jaffna via Karaitivu and its pocket-sized fort.
