Watches and Wonders 2025 is upon us. Click here for all our reports from the watch world’s biggest annual event.
Last week, Ed Sheeran had the watch fraternity on red alert when he was spotted wearing what looked a lot like an unreleased ceramic IWC Ingenieur, which Gèrald Genta designed in the ’70s. There was a similar incident last summer when Brad Pitt wore it. All this has worked eagle-eyed enthusiasts into a lather to see what IWC had up its sleeve for Watches and Wonders in Geneva this week.
Those who were closely watching Sheeran’s wrist are not going to be disappointed. Quite the opposite, in fact, because not only is there a new 42-mm black ceramic Ingenieur, but there’s also a gold one and some smaller 35-mm models. It’s like Christmas came early or late, depending on whether you’re a half cup full or empty person.
“It’s very adventurous for this decidedly serious, technical brand! I love to see the creativity and that they’re thinking of a different audience,” says Dimepiece’s Brynn Wallner about the launch of all these new IWC Ingenieur models.
IWC
IWC
In this day and age, anyone who is coveting an IWC Ingenieur likely knows it is not as popular as an AP Royal Oak or Patek Nautilus, which Genta also designed. In Wallner’s eyes, that is the point. “This is a more ‘IYKYK’ Genta design,” she says. “I think the smaller versions will, amongst its (relatively) niche fan-base, be very on demand. Overall, the watch world is getting comfortable with smaller case sizes again—but more importantly, the smaller case sizes are bringing in non-watch people. If you’re looking plainly at the numbers, the smaller, funkier watches might not be the top-sellers, but pieces like the 35-mm Ingenieur are bringing in a cooler, more fashion or culturally-oriented crowd.”
Wallner believes the smaller size is easier to pull off for someone who’s “not as obsessed with watches, and/or comfortable with 40-mm and up. This size feels manageable, subtle and versatile for someone like me who wants a cool watch to go with any outfit without making a huge statement,” she adds.
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