As you drive into the Thar Desert in northwestern India, a shimmering golden city rises up like a mirage, its massive, sandcastle-like fort looming large on the horizon. Welcome to Jaisalmer, perhaps the most enchanting city in Rajasthan.
Jaisalmer’s 12th-century fort has stood the test of time, as have the many families and businesses that still thrive within its thick walls. An important trading city on the Silk Road in the Middle Ages, Jaisalmer today continues to enchant visitors, its fort and old city chock-a-block with shops selling local handicrafts and souvenirs. Yet beyond this raucous commercialism, Jaisalmer rewards anyone who travels here thanks to its unique location, fairy-tale architecture and exciting desert activities.
Since the city is scorching hot in summer, the winter season – October to March – makes for the best time to visit Jaisalmer. During this time, daytime temperatures are pleasant, though evenings can be quite cold. Remember to pack warm layers, particularly for desert safaris.
Intrigued yet? If so, read on for 10 experiences in Jaisalmer that you can’t miss.
1. Explore one of the few living forts in the world
Built in 1156 by Rawal Jaisal Singh, Jaisalmer’s fort is the second-oldest one in Rajasthan. With a dominant hilltop location and 99 fortified turrets, the golden sandstone citadel is visible from many miles around. Its honey-gold color gave it the name Sonar Quila (golden fort) – a moniker popularized in the 1970s, when filmmaker Satyajit Ray shot a Bengali film of the same name on location. Unlike other forts that are largely museums, Jaisalmer Fort is very much lived in, with a quarter of the old city’s population still residing and working inside its walls.
Walk in through its four huge gateways and you’ll encounter a flurry of activity along its labyrinthine alleys. There are palaces, temples and havelis (mansions) to admire, souvenir shops to check out, restaurants and cafes to dine at and – yes – cows to dodge. Of the palaces, the multi-story Raj Mahal Palace is the most striking: it was the royal residence of the ruler of Jaisalmer and sports a mix of Rajput and Mughal architecture.
After sunset, the lit-up fort makes for an impressive sight, best enjoyed from one of the rooftop restaurants nearby.
Planning tip: Within the fort, the Fort Palace Museum lets you delve into the city’s cultural and historical heritage. On display is a vast range of weaponry and armor, royal costumes, paintings and sculptures, plus an impressive collection of brilliant Rajasthani turbans.
2. Pay your respects at ancient Jain temples
The fort also holds a cluster of seven inter-connected Jain temples that date from between the 12th and 15th centuries. Carved out of sandstone, these stunning structures have soaring spires, scalloped arches and intricate filigree work on their walls, with each temple dedicated to a different Tirthankara (or spiritual teacher). Rishabhdev Temple – dedicated to the first Tirthankara – is one of the oldest, dating back some 900 years. Parshvanath Temple, dedicated to the 23rd Tirthankara, is particularly interesting. Look up at the ornate ceiling, with a sculpture of a demon-like head with four bodies arranged in a circle – then keep an eye on it as you walk around to see the head seemingly connecting to each of the bodies. The temple complex also houses the Gyan Bhandar library, which has a large collection of rare Sanskrit and Prakrit manuscripts written on palm leaf, with painted wooden covers.
Planning tip: The temples are open to visitors between 8am and noon. You will need to remove your shoes and all leather items like belts before entering. An entry fee for foreigners applies, as well as an additional fee if you want to bring in your camera (you can photograph the architecture but not the deities).
3. Embark on a camel safari and camp overnight in the desert
About 40km (25 miles) from the city, the Sam Sand Dunes in the Thar Desert are one of the top attractions near Jaisalmer. These towering dunes make for a majestic sight, one that’s particularly evocative around sunset when they are bathed in hues of gold and orange. Be warned that this is a very touristy spot with crowds of people, and you will be accosted by locals performing folk music and dance, selling trinkets and offering camel rides around the dunes.
To get a true taste of the vast desert, head out on a longer camel safari into its lesser-known parts. Here, apart from the captivating landscape and shape-shifting sand dunes, you might spot various animals like blackbuck and desert foxes. While some safaris last half a day, you can also choose an overnight camping package, which includes a traditional meal, cultural performances, a stay in tented accommodations with basic amenities and – best of all – the chance to wake up to a spectacular sunrise.
Local tip: If you’re the adventurous sort, try adrenaline-pumping activities like dune bashing, quad biking and parasailing in the dunes.
4. Take in the sunrise at the cenotaphs of Jaisalmer’s royal rulers
On a small hill on the outskirts of the city lies Bada Bagh (or “big garden”), a huge complex of chhatris (cenotaphs) made from sandstone. Dating between the 16th and 20th centuries, these were made in honor of the maharajas of Jaisalmer and other royal family members. Each cenotaph has a beautifully carved ceiling and a marble slab with inscriptions about the deceased royal, along with a corresponding symbolic image. The cenotaphs are scattered all around Bada Bagh, their domes rising in a variety of shapes – square, circular and pyramid-shaped. This is a popular photography spot and offers a dramatic backdrop (albeit one slightly marred by the wind turbines that have popped up behind the monuments). Bada Bagh can get quite crowded in the evenings, so arrive early in the morning for spectacular sunrise views.
Detour: About 6km (3¾ miles) from Bada Bagh stands Vyas Chhatri, another impressive sandstone cenotaph, one dedicated to the sage Vyasa, the purported author of the epic Mahabharata. Perched on a hilltop, this cenotaph offers panoramic views of Jaisalmer city and fort and the surrounding desert; sunrise and sunset views are particularly breathtaking.
5. Marvel at the intricately carved mansions of wealthy merchants
It’s no wonder that this former trading city is replete with stunning havelis – mansions that belonged to wealthy merchants. These lavish homes were built both inside and outside the fort, adorned with intricate carvings, ornamental arches and beautiful jharokhas (projected balconies). The largest and grandest of them is the 19th-century Patwon-ki-Haveli, a cluster of five mansions built by five Jain brothers who traded in gold and silver brocade. One of the houses has been converted into a museum, where you can see intricate stonework, chiseled wooden ceilings and colorful murals. Some 500m (1640ft) away stands the distinctively shaped Salim Singh-ki-Haveli, which has an arched roof and carved brackets in the form of peacocks. Don’t miss the nearby Nathmal-ki-Haveli, and its exquisite blend of Rajput and Mughal architectural influences; majestic sandstone elephants stand outside its carved door, with exquisite frescoes and mirror work inside.
6. Take a joyride on an artificial lake that never dries up
Located on the southeastern edge of the city, Gadisar Lake was constructed by Rawal Jaisal in 1156, and later rebuilt in the 14th century by Rawal Gadsi Singh Bhati. Until 1965, the lake was the city’s only source of water – and, indeed, it never runs dry as it is fed by the Indira Gandhi Canal, which runs from Punjab to Rajasthan. Fringed by temples, shrines and ghats, the picturesque lake provides a lovely setting for a tranquil evening. If you fancy, rent a paddleboat for a spin across the water. In winter, you might even spot a few migratory birds, which fly in from the bird sanctuary at nearby Keoladeo National Park.
Local tip: A few minutes from the lake, the Desert Culture Center and Museum showcases regional musical instruments, traditional jewelry and textiles, medieval coins and artillery. It also puts on puppet shows in the evening.
7. Savor a sumptuous thali highlighting the desert’s hardy cuisine
Desert cuisine is influenced by the scarcity of water and fresh vegetables, making for dishes like ker sangri, a tangy preparation of desert beans and capers; and gatte ki sabzi, chickpea dumplings in yogurt-based gravy. The other staple on a Rajasthani thali (large platter with multiple dishes) is dal-baati-churma, a combination of spicy lentils, deep-fried dough balls and sweetened crushed wheat. Don’t miss sampling some laal maas, a Rajasthani delicacy of goat meat cooked in spicy chili peppers. Some of the best thalis can be had at The Trio Restaurant on Gandhi Chowk Rd; Saffron Restaurant at Nachna Haveli; KB Cafe, opposite Patwon-ki-Haveli; and The Legend of Marwad at Suryagarh, a luxury hotel located 13km (8 miles) from the city. (It’s worth the drive.)
If you want a break from rich Rajasthani food, Jaisalmer is dotted with charming rooftop restaurants where you can find a mix of Indian, Italian and Chinese cuisines. Try Jaisal Italy for pizzas and pasta, Cafe The Kaku for global cuisine and Gaji’s Restaurant for Korean food.
8. Soak in Rajasthani culture at Jaisalmer Desert Festival
The annual Jaisalmer Desert Festival is a great reason to visit the city. Held over three days at the end of January or early February (dates vary), the event showcases the rich heritage of the region. Expect traditional Rajasthani folk music and dance performances like the spellbinding ghoomar and Kalbelia. (The latter is particularly impressive as it is performed by members of the snake-charmer tribe, whose dance mimics the movements of a serpent.) Another highlight is the camel parade, during which camels adorned in colorful livery process ceremonially through the city streets. You can also watch unique competitions such as turban-tying contests, longest-moustache competitions and juggling events, as well as camel races and even camel polo. The evenings end with fireworks displays – a proper way to celebrate this rich immersion in desert culture.
9. Take home locally made handicrafts and souvenirs
You’ll see examples of Rajasthan’s splendid craftsmanship in Jaisalmer’s many bazaars, where you can find everything from embroidered fabrics and traditional silver jewelry to handcrafted leather items and decorative carved wooden pieces. The narrow streets of Sadar Bazaar should be your first stop, to peruse beautifully made leather bags and footwear as well as traditional paintings and wall hangings. Bhatia Bazaar near the fort is famous for stunning earrings, necklaces and bangles as well as colorful puppets, dolls and other artisanal crafts. If you want to play dress-up in traditional attire, Manak Chowk has a plethora of clothing shops; you can also stock up on spices and sample local snacks and sweets in this market. A couple of minutes from Salim Singh-ki-Haveli is Pansari Bazaar, one of the oldest street markets in the city, known for traditional souvenirs like block-printed fabrics, wooden toys and unique jewelry.
10. Get spooked at an abandoned “ghost” village
Established in the 13th century, Kuldhara, 18km (11 miles) from Jaisalmer, was once a thriving and prosperous village of farmers, traders and artisans – one that was abruptly abandoned in the 19th century. The reasons remain unknown: perhaps the water supply was dwindling, or it was hit by an earthquake. But local legend tells a different story, that of a minister who was determined to marry the daughter of the village chief. The chief was threatened with dire consequences if the marriage did not happen. To protect the daughter’s honor, the townspeople abandoned the village overnight, placing a curse on it for good measure.
Today, Kuldhara stands in ruins, and visitors can take in the remains of houses, temples and community structures. Given the legend and the creepy village vestiges, the place has acquired a reputation for being haunted, with visitors reporting apparitions, eerie noises and other paranormal activity.
