The process of choosing, wearing, and caring for a suit is often fraught with tough decisions, confusing jargon, and conflicting opinions. That’s why we’ve assembled an all-star roster of menswear experts to definitively answer all your sartorial queries. Welcome to GQ’s Ask a Tailor.
British menswear legend Sir Paul Smith is known for putting his signature multi-stripe on everything from socks and cardigans to Land Rovers and Leica cameras, but his biggest contribution to fashion might be teaching generations of men how to have more fun with their suits. Sir Paul trained on Savile Row before going into business for himself, and five decades later you can still find him working at his eponymous brand’s London flagship shop most Saturdays.
Smith’s creations are notoriously diverse (in the early ’80s he made a shirt with an all-over photographic spaghetti print) but all of it—including his suits—share a sense of exuberance that’s wholly unique. Whether it’s the “Artist Stripe” trim on the four-button cuffs of his best-selling travel suit or a dusty pink velvet tux with a peacock-colored lining, Smith has never been afraid to play around with color and pattern, and he doesn’t think you should, either. We asked him to share his best advice for wearing a suit without taking it too seriously.
GQ: I’ve heard that you wear a suit every day, including on the weekends. What do you love most about suits?
Sir Paul Smith: Practicality and comfort! You might think that I’ve gone crazy, but a well-made suit is the most comfortable piece of clothing one can own. There are plenty of pockets to stash my pen, notebook, specs, phone—I love that about suits. I feel great in them!
What was your main goal when you started designing?
When I first started out, I was just hoping that someone would like my ideas and designs. It was never about comparing myself to other designers. My clothes have never been attention-seeking, it was (and still is) important to me that everything I create is wearable. I like to experiment with color, new techniques, prints—playful but still wearable.
Courtesy of Paul Smith
Courtesy of Paul Smith
What did the experience of studying on Savile Row teach you about tailoring?
I took evening lessons in tailoring and it was my first introduction to making garments. It was an incredible learning experience where I gained a real understanding of the craft of tailoring.
Why did you choose to go in a different direction?
I guess I was more playful and eager to add myself into the designs, which is really not an option if you are working as a tailor on Savile Row.
How would you describe your style when it comes to suits and tailoring?
Classic with a twist. Well-constructed silhouettes with a pop of color or print in the lining. Most of our tailoring is classic but when you look close enough there’s always a surprise.
Why is mod style such a perennial influence on your work?
At that time, it was radical to care about how you looked, the mods started customizing their suits, inventing their own designs—and they looked brilliant! What I like about the mods, punks, and new romantics is that self-expression comes through style.
What’s your idea of the perfect suit?
I think there are suits that are perfect for different occasions and needs. If you are looking to invest in one suit, I would go for one of our A Suit To Travel In suits.
What suit do you wear most these days?
Day to day, I wear a classic navy two-piece, but on a particularly special occasion, I might wear something bolder—a dark green wool with a white check, for example.
Courtesy of Paul Smith
Courtesy of Paul Smith
What’s the best way to introduce color and pattern into a tailored wardrobe?
If you are not ready to go head to toe color, then you can play with patterned or colored linings—it’s a good starting point! Overall, I think that statement suits are becoming more common and there are so many colors and styles to choose from that I think there is something that suits everyone.
Is there a trick to combining traditional tailoring with more casual pieces?
Suits are only practical if they work for your needs, and the customer is who I think about when designing the collections. We came up with the Modern Working Wardrobe line as a response to the changing times. People are now dividing their time between the office and remote working, there is a lot more flexibility when it comes to work, and it makes sense that there is a lot more flexibility in suiting and tailoring. I think both from a styling and design perspective, we had to modernize our offering, the suit is always evolving!
Do you have any other personal rules for getting dressed?
I tend to wear clothes that are appropriate for me and make me feel good. There are no rules but I always like to add an element of surprise to my outfits.
Would you make the case for including a pair of bright, colorful patterned socks in one’s wardrobe these days?
I think it goes hand in hand with your question about introducing color to your wardrobe. Socks are also a perfect way to do that. When I wear my classic navy suit, I like to wear colorful or stripey socks—it adds an element of the unexpected.
In terms of celebrities or public figures past and present, who do you think has the most fun wearing a suit?
An old friend of mine, the late David Bowie.
